Varanassi, India's Heartbeat

Even though Udaipur and Varanassi were both cities on the water, seen in close succession, the two places were completely different in feel.














Varanssi is an important city to all Indians and holy to Hindu's. It represents their oldest unbroken location link with India's past, having been populated continuously for around 2500 years according to Western historians and around 5000 years according to the Indians.

Whereas Udaipur had a resort town kind of feel with many white painted buildings, Varanssi was grimier and more earthy. A place strong on Indian culture, it's alleyways near the water were small, dark, claustrophobic and crammed with the sights and smells of Indian life. Down by the water it was like a snapshot of the core of Indian daily life. Here you could observe aspects of commonality of routine that runs like a thread through all the disparate Indian towns and cities. Liked it. Lots.














Varanassi, by virtue of it's Venice connection is also known as a romantic city. Here a dead cow enjoys the sunrise.














On the water in the morning there were crowds of people, swimming, washing clothes and pots. The Ganges river is believed to cleanse the soul.














Being cremated and having your ashes spread here is said to be a shortcut to Nirvana. As you could understand, we weren't exactly lining up to take a dip.

This part of the Ganges is dangerously polluted, later in the trip Gwen and I were fortunate to see the clean green Ganges in Rishikesh as opposed to the polluted brown one here. Despite the pollution Varanassi had a definite appeal.

This is a funeral ghat, where cremations are conducted, photography only permitted from a distance. Laws exist here to protect female foetuses because sons are seen as far more valuable. As an example only a son can do part of the funeral ceremony that ensures the progress of the father's soul to the next life or source.















The ghats near the Ganges in Varanassi are also a powerful place for Indian families from all over the country to come and seek spiritual advice and an understanding of how the Indian bus system actually works.














Meditation, community, prayer, yoga and backflips off the surrounding banks are also daily river activities throughout India.