Thursday, November 23, 2006

The Not-So-Rare Invisible Tiger

Rathanbore National Park was to be a highlight. Lovely hotel, complete with a collection of bizzarro swimming attire thanks to the European travellers (how you can swim in those oversized undy-type bathers is beyond me!) along with the possibility of seeing tigers in the wild had anticipation very high.
We had a very good guide on our journey's through the park. His sharp eyes quickly identified this creature as an Indian Rooster.



















...this one is apparently a baby Indian rooster.














This is a baby Indian rooster having dinner.














Some of the group went out on the trucks three times to maximise the chance of a meeting with Mr and Mrs Tiger, and while we saw a good collection of wildlife particularly on the first foray...part of the problem with wildlife reserves is that sometimes the stars forget to read the script.

So while a couple of people saw gimpses of tawny fur through the binoculars, we were a couple of times, despite being as quiet as a truck with 20 people on it can be, just moments too late.

Still we managed to live vicariousley through the excitment of a group of children who had seen a tiger. Suggestions that the kiddies jump out of their truck and point out exactly where the tigers had been, were unfortunately turned down.

For me the Bloody Mary's drunk around the pool were equally as memorable as the tigers I didn't see. This shot has no Indian roosters or tigers in it, however it's a cool photo anyways.



















Here is a bright colourful picture of the tiger I saw....








Speaking of wildlife, I have to say that India's bugs and kreepy krawlies have a level of intelligence and instinctive self-preservation that leaves the bugs in Oz looking positively remedial.

Here cockroaches fly out of your way, or depending on the situation will stand really still and pretend to be a salt and pepper shaker that has mysteriously materialised in your bathroom.

One night I tried to swipe this bug off my leg, (it's antenae span was as wide, if not wider then my shin and calf) and I shit you not that the cheeky bugger told me off in a squeaky kind of chirpy voice, that was loud and demonstrated both an impressive vocabulary and a sound grasp of regional politics.

If you look closely you can see that he also had a smile and a wink for the camera.

Shivpuri

This particular post is a long way out of sequence (due to my CD Rom's being a 6 hour train ride away), but since I'm still a long way to catching up with where we're at presently I'm going to post anyways.

As best I can recollect these pictures are from Shivpuri. These are some nightime photo's taken of the cenotaphs built as memorials for dead Hindu royalty.



















It was a bit late by the time I got there, so I kind of accidently jumped a couple of walls and had a wander with a torch to get these shots.



















There were numerous cenotaphs scattered around the shoreline which made for quite a powerful, eery and yes a little scary setting in the dark. A great place to film some sort of thriller or horror film.



















This somewhat more sunny picture is of a ruin, also in Chanderi I think. There were about 3 stories of the structure remaining but in its pomp it was about 7 stories high. Even as a ruin the symetry archways and staircases was very impressive. If you look closely it also came complete with it's very own vertigo immune, laconic "guard dog".

Tuesday, November 07, 2006

Jodhpur and Luni

After Khejarla we moved on to Jodhpur, also know as the blue city, blue being the colour of Brahmin or those of the preist caste. The trend of painting houses blue, as trends by nature do, seems to have spread somewhat. "Just go straight down this road and turn left at the blue house...".This is a view of Jodhpur showing the lower portion of the fort and the town itself.














The forts of India range in size from small to massive, locations from the accesible to the unassailable depending on factors such as the wealth and resources possessed by those requiring it to be built and the degree of threat posed by rivals. The Mehrangarh fort was one of the biggest we saw. Assaulting this momma would not have been fun.














From Jodhpur we drove on to Luni, which was a very small town yet it sported a very impressive luxurious hotel, behind a large wall and gate. I can only think it must be nicely located as a key stopover on the way to somewhere.

I forget what the name of this particular festival was, but that night the villagers were rocking along to the local 'Gerba' dance under lights. There is no nightime curfew for kids here, they went on dancing away, singing and clicking sticks until early the next morning!

Some of the local kids suggested I get up and go for a dance, clearly they had either never actually seen me dance or alternatively were keen to clear the place out early.














The price of banana's had everyone a bit bummed...

Village Walk In Khejarla

India is a massively diverse country. In a nation of well over a billion people (a bit of a vague number but you get the gist) with a population density of some 300+ people to the square km'er - Australia is something like 14 - the population finds many ways to express and mantain their individuality.

I've enjoyed seeing how villages within a few kilometres of each other can still be very distinct yet unmistakebly Indian. They all have different ways of dressing, everying thing from hairstyles, head coverings and facial hair can have noticeable differences, in addition buildings, vehicles and demeanour distiniguish different places.

One of my favourite experiences during the first couple of weeks was where we visted a small village called Khejarla (as always corrections are welcome). There we were hosted at small fort by a gentlemen who was a prince, the son of the current living Raj for this area. The prince was an excellent and gratious host, one of those individuals that you sometimes meet and leave thinking about what a class act they are. It was clear walking around how much his people respected and loved him, likewise he treated young and old alike with courtesy, respect and warmth.

It took me the below pic from the fort to finally work out why parents tell their children not to throw rocks into the pool.














During the evening the prince took us for a walk through the village. Here, away from the tourist path we were able to enjoy the peacefullness of the Indian people and the warmth they offer to strangers without the previousley inevitable request for baksheesh (money for beggars) or persistent requests to buy goods. I have to date now been offered to buy 1,234,312 pashmina shawls.

This lady was just chilling in her compound, her daughters asked me inside to take this photo after I had taken one of them. Indians love digital cameras because they can see the captured moment instantly. The women make big smiles for the camera while the men stand serious and to attention. For the children the object of the game seems to be to take front posi at any costs and to squeeze as many into the frame as possible. Even though she was just sorting some grains, this lady was immaculately presented as most Indian women are, in her jewellery and colourful clothing.














The prince took us up to the village temple where the villagers, in addition to making their spirtual offerings were also playing, climbing and just plain old having a good time. This is a view of the figurine inside the temple.



















Although the Raj was the head of the village, the animals have their own thoughts about who really owned the place...